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Archives for June 2017

Old courthouse trees get checkup in Crown Point

Tree branches dropped with thuds on the historic Lake County Courthouse lawn recently as workers pruned away years of dead wood and tended to structural issues on the grounds 20 or so trees.

It would be a full day of pruning by Evans Tree Care, the company tapped by the Lake Court House Foundation Inc., to tend to the trees on the grounds the not-for-profit owns and manages.

“Hands down this is one of the most recognizable buildings in Lake County,” Russell Hodge, an International Society of Arboriculture-certified arborist with Evans Tree Care. Work included removing the low-hanging branches and opening up the ground level view to the courthouse along with removing the dead wood and addressing structural concerns including one trunk-like branch on the east side of the courthouse damaged in a storm.

“It’s been nine years since we pruned the last time,” Hodge said. Maintenance and routine pruning helps extend the life of trees and minimize potential liability from property damage should a damaged branch fall, he said.

Not-so-secret gardens

A biennial tour through Salem’s oldest part of the city will give visitors a peek into private backyards to experience the diverse gardens of homes both large and small.

The Salem Garden Club’s tour on Saturday, July 8, titled “A Stroll through the Gardens of Salem,” will feature the colorful pocket gardens of some historic homes of workers, such as blacksmiths and carpenters, as well as formal gardens of the more well-to-do-homes, including those of sea captains of the era, in the McIntire Historic District of Salem.

This historic garden tour, which takes place every two years, rotates among the neighborhoods of Salem.

“Many people who attend are interested in the city’s history as well as the flowers,” said Meg McMahon, co-chair with Tracy Rubin.

The self-guided tour will travel along a route including Chestnut, Federal, River, Lynn and Hamilton streets.

In addition to the 15 private gardens, there will be two bonus gardens on Essex Street, one at Ropes Mansion and one at the Salem Athenaeum, where there will be a refreshment stand.

The McIntire Historic District is named after Salem’s Samuel McIntire, a celebrated architect-carver whose works include Hamilton Hall (1805). The district contains one of the greatest concentrations of notable pre-1900 domestic structures in the country, according to a city guide.

The garden club is historic, too, celebrating its 89th anniversary this year. Its first garden tour was held to celebrate its 10th year in 1938 and featured 10 gardens and houses, with more than 600 people attending at a cost of $1 per person.

This event is a major fundraiser for the club and benefits many of Salem’s civic garden projects.

The tour will showcase gardens described as traditional, quaint and eclectic, with local musicians and plein-air artists featured on several properties.

Mike McCarran, a Salem native, and his wife Paula, have attended three previous tours.

The couple, who live in Danvers, enjoy the opportunity to visit other gardens where they may learn new gardening and landscaping tips.

“You meet a lot of friendly people, and you hear a lot of stories along the way,” said Paula McCarran. “It’s interesting to talk to the homeowners. You see hidden gems in Salem that you would never see just driving by. I love being able to see what’s behind the fence.”

In one garden on this year’s route, the homeowner uses a variety of repurposed, found items to adorn the space.

“It’s interesting to see the way people have used their creativity to enhance their gardens,” said McMahon.

Barbara McLaughlin of Lynn Street, a garden club member, said the tour shows off an array of styles.

“The beauty of gardening is that no matter what size the space, you can make a beautiful area, and each one has a different ambiance,” said McLaughlin, a case manager at Massachusetts General Hospital.

“It does a lot for your blood pressure and your mind,” she said about her outdoor space, which features hydrangeas and roses, among other plants, and will be open to visitors on the tour.

When the tour last went through this neighborhood in 2009, Linda and Fred Lipton of Federal Street did not yet have a garden. Both were teachers with a love of history.

“We had a Federal-style house and needed a formal garden,” said Linda Lipton. “As we were preparing the ground, we researched historically accurate gardens.”

But they were faced with a “drunken trapezoid” shaped space.

In the course of their studies, they found historic inspiration. They worked eight years to transform an irregular shaped plot into a garden, with half of that time embroiled in just readying it for flowers.

Visitors on July 8 will see the Lipton’s transformation into what the tour description refers to as a “series of garden rooms oval-shaped perennial; a rose garden with a diamond-shaped, boxwood parterre: and a shade garden tucked behind the shed.”

“People forget the garden is an extension of the house and we wanted to make sure our garden went with the house,” Linda said.


What: A Stroll Through the Gardens of Salem

When: Saturday, July 8, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., rain or shine

Where: A self-guided tour in the McIntire Historic District

Cost: $20 on day of the tour at First Church, 316 Essex St., Salem; $18 if purchased by Thursday, July 6, at Proceeds benefit Salem civic projects, including planting and maintenance of Washington Street traffic island; plantings of City Hall window boxes; plantings at Blue Star Memorial on Hawthorne Boulevard; monthly flower arrangement at Salem Public Library; and an annual scholarship.

More information: Rain or shine. For tickets, parking and details, visit A lecture featuring Christopher Patzke is set for Saturday from 1 to 2 p.m. at Hamilton Hall, 9 Chestnut St., Salem; free, open to the public. Complimentary refreshments served along the route, with local musicians and artists featured in several gardens. These private gardens are not handicapped-accessible. Pets and carriages are not permitted.

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With edible landscaping, Atlantans trade boxwoods for blueberries

Lilburn couple Chip and Janice Wilmot’s garden inspires creative cooking

June 29, 2017Comments

Chip and Janice Wilmot stand in their edible landscape, with a serviceberry tree in the background. Chip holds produce he picked from the garden.

Photograph by Adina Solomon

When Chip and Janice Wilmot moved into their Lilburn home in 1993, they planted traditional laurel shrubs in their front yard.

“It was a little boring for us,” Janice admits.

The couple enjoys cooking and entertaining guests, so eight years ago, they decided to extend that ethos into their garden and grow their own edible landscape.

By definition, these ornamental gardens incorporate some type of edible plant—whether that’s a leaf, fruit, seed, or even flower, says L. Daniel Ballard, the owner of Convivial Gardens, an Atlanta-based landscaping company that specializes in edible gardens.

“We live in an urban environment, so people are more conscious of not only having a beautiful landscape, but having a landscape that they can interact with,” Ballard says.

Edible landscaping has also sprouted in popularity due to the cost savings of growing food at home versus buying produce at the grocery store. Ballard says that while there is an upfront cost for the garden, which varies depending on size and type of plants involved, most people won’t need to replant their edibles every year.

“In many ways, it’s similar to the local food movement,” he says. “People enjoy local farmer’s markets, so what does it look like to have a farmer’s market in your own backyard?”

Chip Wilmot stands in his Lilburn home’s edible landscape.

Photograph by Adina Solomon

The Wilmots walk through their garden, which spans across all sides of their house, pointing out more than 30 different edible varieties: pineapple guava, figs, bee balm, lemon balm, lemon thyme, alpine strawberries, blueberries. The list goes on.

“I just like stuff that is a little different,” Chip says. “In cooking, I really like to use nepitella (an Italian herb that tastes like a combination of mint and oregano), which is very rare, even in the United States. Pineapple guava isn’t something you would normally see or eat, so just the uniqueness of it just holds a fascination for me.”

Chip and Janice Wilmot have a fig tree and use the leaves to wrap grilled fish.

Photograph by Adina Solomon

He uses the leaves from his garden’s fig tree to wrap grilled fish, and, he tells his wife, he just found a recipe for fig leaf ice cream he’s eager to try.

In addition to being an economical food source, an edible landscape can also make a statement. Mitch Jaffe, the CEO of PREP, a shared kitchen in Atlanta that is the culinary base for 120 food companies such as Verdant Kitchen, Emerald City Bagels, and Salsa Sol Del Rio, installed an edible landscape when the facility opened in 2014. Peaches, blueberries, and figs grow along the edges of the buildings in lieu of typical flower beds.

“When we were building the facility, we had a choice to add run-of-the-mill landscaping,” Jaffe says. “We felt like [edible landscaping] was more appropriate for what we do here.”

PREP’s edible landscape doesn’t produce food for any of the 120 companies—it is more to show that the shared kitchen supports the mission of its producers who often cook with local, seasonal ingredients. It’s also a source of snacks for hungry chefs at work in the kitchen and for people touring PREP’s facilities.

“[The chefs] are the ones usually noshing off the plants,” Jaffe says, chuckling. “There’s nothing quite like a fig or a blueberry that’s tree-ripened.”

The garden also attracts colorful songbirds. Ballard says choosing plants that animals and insects can enjoy is the cutting edge of edible landscaping.

“People are able to look out their own windows and see more and more wildlife in their yards,” he says.

In order to cultivate an edible landscape, Ballard recommends looking at where you need coverage and thinking about edible options that can be used in place of traditional plants.

“What would it look like if, instead of planting a crepe myrtle, I planted a persimmon tree or apple tree?” Ballard says.

Blueberries are the best edible landscaping plant because they are easy to grow, he says. Other plants that thrive in Atlanta are thornless blackberries, Asian and American persimmon trees, raspberries, and strawberries. Serviceberries, which taste like blueberries with an almond tint, are native to Georgia. If you’re looking for somewhere small to start, Ballard says herb gardens, including mint and basil, can be easily incorporated into existing landscapes.

Chip Wilmot picks rosemary from the garden.

Photograph by Adina Solomon

Chip recommends bee balm, Mexican tarragon, parsley, and to cover the ground, thyme. He and Janice spend one to two hours per week tending the garden and don’t use pesticides.

It’s also important to know what you want your garden to look like and what will work for your particular yard. For example, most tomato varieties won’t flourish without eight hours of full sunlight, Ballard says.

Chip says some varieties of edible plants like to migrate, so if left alone, the garden can look more natural than manicured.

“You have to understand where you are on the spectrum of wild and unkempt to a formal, well-coiffed garden,” he says. “A lot of the things we grow, like lemon balm, reseeds crazy and spreads everywhere.”

Ballard says having tomatoes and salad greens in boxes can give defined place for those plants.

Janice also warns that untrained lawn service companies can spray or cut edible plants because of lack of familiarity. Ballard recommends using landscape companies that specialize in edibles.

Done right, edible landscaping can be rewarding—not only is it sustainable, but it gives creative cooks a chance to experiment with uncommon ingredients.

“It’s not just growing your garden variety of thyme,” Chip says. “You can grow a few different varieties and use those.”

Using ingredients from their edible landscape, Chip and Janice Wilmot cooked seared scallop with celeriac purée, black garlic sauce, basil oil and leek florets, topped with an allium flower.

Photograph courtesy of Chip Wilmot

Want to learn more about crafting your own edible landscape? Homestead Atlanta offers edible landscaping classes and workshops. An upcoming tour of an edible garden in Decatur will be held September 30 at 2 p.m.—visit Homestead Atlanta’s website for more details and to sign up.

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Uses of salt in home care

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July gardening tips

July means the Dog Days of Summer (Monday through Aug. 11), celebration of our nation’s independence (Tuesday), 31 days to enjoy activities with our kids before school prep kicks in, and for gardeners, time to put on the sunscreen and start checking off items on the July gardening “to do list”:

• Don’t chill tropical houseplants by watering with cold tap water. Let the water stand until it reaches room temperature so delicate root hairs aren’t harmed.

• Our hot, dry weather brings out red spiders mites. Inspect roses, evergreens, and marigolds in particular for pale-green coloration. Hold a white sheet of paper underneath a leaf and briskly tap it. Tiny, crawling mites will drop onto the paper if they are on the leaf. For light infestations, use a forceful, direct spray of water from the hose. Remove and destroy severely infested plants and use pesticides to control mild infestations.

• Water your plants several hours before applying pesticides, during dry weather. Stressed plants have less water in their tissues and chemicals may burn the leaves.

• A piece of corrugated cardboard, such as the side from a box, forms an effective and portable barrier when spraying a non-selective herbicide next to desired plants. By changing the angle of the cardboard, it’s easy to spray weeds growing right up to the base of a plant while shielding the stems, branches and leaves. Since some herbicide will get on the shield, the same side should always face the sprayer when moved from one location to another.

• Many plants are easily increased by layering. Verbenas, euonymus, ivy, daphne and climbing roses will root if stems are fastened down on soft earth with a wire and covered with some soil.

• Check sprinklers and drip systems to make sure that all outlets are working.

• Dig and divide crowded spring-flowering bulbs and tubers when the foliage dies off.

• Divide and transplant bearded iris. Use the vigorous ends of the rhizomes and discard old center portion. Cut the leaves back to about eight inches.

• Continue to deadhead perennials and even some shrubs. Butterfly bush (Buddleia), summer spirea and even crape myrtles will continue to bloom if they have the spent flowers removed, preventing seed set. Basil needs to be clipped to keep foliage growing, and black eyed Susan’s (rudbeckia), purple coneflower (Echinacea) and gaillardia will all set seeds if you don’t deadhead.

• Tropical flowering plants are also good choices, and this is their season — they love it hot and humid. Fertilize weekly and make sure they have plenty of water, and they will bloom nonstop.

• For a late harvest of beans, beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers and summer squash, sow seeds or plant seedlings.

• If you still need color, plant annuals like sweet alyssum, cosmos, ageratum, celosia, petunias, marigolds, salvia, verbena, vinca and zinnias in sunny gardens and begonias, coleus and impatiens in the shade.

• And finally, don’t be shy about pruning your patio planters. Pruning — even severe pruning — makes them grow and flower better. And remember to water and fertilize.

Lance Kirkpatrick is the Sebastian County Cooperative Extension agent. Have questions about lawn, garden or other horticulture related issues? The Sebastian County Extension Service can help with offices in Barling and Greenwood. Call (479) 484-7737 for answers to horticulture questions.

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Gardening tips from the Bayport Flower Houses

The Bayport Flower Houses was founded 85 years ago by Maria and Paul Auwaerter. They used to grow flowers to sell at the floral markets in New York City.

The business has lots of events for community outreach. It has a Lady Bug Breakfast which is where it releases thousands of ladybugs to help plants and crops. At the Buffet of Berries, it plants red, yellow and orange hollies for winter birds. Many schools go there for field trips as well.

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Here are some summer gardening tips by Nicole from Bayport Flower Houses:

  • It’s all about the soil. Use good soil!
  • Go organic — plant with no chemicals.
  • Water thoroughly.
  • Try planning something new each year.

The Bayport Flower Houses has a mascot, Peaty, a dog named for peat moss. The most popular plants it sells are poinsettias, trees and shrubs. Check out the calendar of events on its website because it often has planting classes for kids. Oh, and it delivers. For more information, check out

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Think July is a dead time for gardening? Not necessarily, as this to-do list shows

When you talk about gardening in Texas, July doesn’t spring first to mind. This month is more about just surviving. We forget there are creative things we can do. Let’s take a look at the big picture — all the prime opportunities July presents to North Texas gardeners. Here are things you’ll want to check off your list.


▪ Crape myrtles while they’re in full bloom in area nurseries. Buy in bloom so you can get the exact shades that you want. Check the plants’ labels carefully to be sure their mature sizes will fit the spaces you have available.

▪ Hot weather annual color, including lantanas, fanflowers, pentas, angelonias, moss rose, hybrid purslane, copper plants, Gold Star esperanza, purple fountaingrass and firebush.

▪ Tomatoes and pumpkins early in the month to give them ample time to grow and mature before frost. In both cases, stick with small to mid-sized varieties. Large tomatoes won’t set fruit well in fall’s cooler weather. Large pumpkins will take too long to mature.

▪ New lawns from sod or seed. No matter how you’re starting your new grass, rototill to a depth of 2 to 3 inches and rake to a smooth planting bed. Water for short intervals in morning and evening for the first couple of weeks to prevent new grass from drying out.


▪ Shrubs to restore natural growth form by removing long, erratic branches.

▪ Perennials to remove spent flower stalks and seed heads. Pinch growing tips out of mums, Mexican bush sage and fall asters one last time early in the month to keep the plants more compact.

▪ Continue mowing at the same height you have used all spring and early summer. Raising the mower blade does not improve drought tolerance. In fact, tall grass quickly becomes weak grass. Weeds will move in quite freely.


▪ Turf with all-nitrogen food with half or more of that nitrogen in slow-release form (either coated or encapsulated). Do not feed St. Augustine until fall if gray leaf spot has been a known problem.

▪ Annual color beds to keep plants growing actively. Keep granules off plants’ leaves, and water fertilizer into the soil immediately after application.

▪ Patio pots and hanging baskets every time that you water them. Use a water-soluble plant food. Mix it in a concentrated solution, then dilute it by putting a siphoning proportioner into a bucket of the mix. Every third or fourth time that you water, flush extra water through the mix so that excesses of mineral salts won’t accumulate.

▪ Iron chlorosis will appear as yellowed leaves with dark green veins most prominently at tips of branches. Apply an iron product in tandem with a sulfur soil acidifier to help keep the iron in a soluble form.

Be on the lookout for…

▪ Chinch bugs in St. Augustine. 2016 was a terrible year for them, so populations may be poised for another outbreak. They appear in the sunniest, hottest areas of your lawn. Grass appears dry but does not respond to irrigation. Watch for them anytime after mid-July, and check the surface of the soil for BB-sized black insects with irregular white diamonds on their backs. Treat with a labeled insecticide.

▪ Lace bugs. They turn the leaves of lantanas, pyracanthas, boxwoods, azaleas, sycamores, American elms, bur oaks, Boston ivy and other landscape plants speckled tan. You’ll seldom see the adult insects, but if you turn the leaves over you’ll see black waxy specks (excrement) on the backs. You can spray with a contact insecticide or use a systemic product, although pale leaves will not regain their dark green appearance.

▪ Leafrollers. They may tie the leaves of sweetgums, redbuds, vinca (trailing periwinkle) ground cover and cannas together, turning them brown in the process. Apply a systemic insecticide, preferably earlier in the season next year.

▪ Gray leaf spot. It appears in St. Augustine in irregular washes across the lawn, both in sun and shade. On close inspection you’ll see grayish-brown lesions on the blades of the grass and occasionally on the runners, again about the size of BBs. Apply a labeled turf fungicide, but do not apply nitrogen, as it accelerates the disease.

▪ Rose rosette virus has ruined most rose plantings in the Metroplex over the past five or six years. Affected plants have stunted, clubby stems with multitudes of vicious thorns. Flower buds fail to open properly, turning brown and crisp. There is no prevention or cure for this virus. Infected plants must be dug, put in black plastic trash bags and sent to the landfill. Wait until research finding resistance to the virus is announced, hopefully before too many years. This is a sad and serious disease that has singled out the DFW area for its worst epidemic.

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Basic tips to reclaim your lawn and garden


AgriNews photos/Erica Quinlan Broadleaf weeds grow in a home garden in Indiana.

WHITELAND, Ind. — A single dandelion plant can produce 15,000 seeds per year, said Sarah Hanson, Purdue Extension Johnson County director.

The same plant can live up to six years. With those odds, it’s no wonder that weed control is a difficult undertaking.

Hanson talked about weeds during a free Extension event.

“A weed is a plant out of place,” she said. “If you like dandelions, they are not considered weeds.

“Weeds compete with the rest of our lawns and gardens. They are trying to get the same nutrients — the water, sunlight, space. They can reduce the yields of your good plants. It may even increase your mowing costs, like fuel and time.”


Weeds can be hard to eradicate in home lawns, gardens and driveways. Learning how ID them and taking preventative measures can help make the battle easier to fight. 

The three steps to weed management are:

1. Weed identification.

2. Weed prevention.

3. Weed management.

Weed ID

According to Hanson, there are three main types of weeds: grass, with a single blade; broadleaf, with multiple blades; and sedge, with triangle-shaped stems.

It’s important to know the lifespan of your trouble weeds. Annual weeds live for one year, biennial live for two years and perennial live more than two years.

There are plenty of free resources online that can help you identify your weeds and learn their characteristics. But, when in doubt, you always can ask the folks at your county Extension office.

Preventing Weeds

A variety of methods can prevent weeds from becoming a problem. Examples include mulching, hand pulling weeds early in the season and cultivating.

“Mow at a 3-inch minimum, frequently,” Hanson said. “Maintain a dense lawn with proper fertilizer and water. Select the best turf grass for the site.”

It’s also a good idea to assess your situation each year. Did your method work? Take notes.

Management Methods

Herbicides are commonly used to kill weeds. It’s crucial to follow labels carefully.

The information on the label contains safety protocol, regulations, product warranty and possible harvest restrictions.

“Don’t waste time and money,” Hanson said. “Buy the correct product and only in the amount you need. Know the correct rate and use it.”

Types of herbicide actions include:

Contact herbicide — affects parts of the plant it contacts. A good option for easy-to-kill weeds or annual weeds.

Translocated herbicide — the herbicide is taken into the plant via leaves or roots. This method can kill deep rooted plants, perennial weeds or difficult-to-control weeds.

Non-selective herbicides — kills all weeds in non-plant areas such as driveways. Use a directed spray around desired plant if no selective treatment is available.

Selective herbicides — controls a particular plant without harming related organisms. For example, it might kill broadleaf weeds present in turf grass.

Pre-emergence and post-emergence herbicide options are available in organic and synthetic options.

“Weeds can be hard to eradicate,” she said. “You have to take advantages of the differences between your weeds and desirable plants.”

A combination of short and long-term solutions are recommended to fight weeds.

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How to care for your tomatoes during the hot summer days

Central San Joaquin Valley gardeners are justifiably proud of their bountiful tomato crops. Our tomato season goes into full swing at the end of June and the first weeks of July when both early- and late-ripening varieties are ready to eat – and when problems become obvious.


Here are a few common summertime tomato problems you may find in your garden.

Cracking and cat-facing – As temperatures rise above 90 degrees in summer, tomato flesh expands faster than the skins, causing the skin to crack; the cracks immediately heal, leaving narrow scars. The cracking is normal and does not usually affect the fruit quality, just its appearance. Keep the soil consistently moist – tomatoes need at least 2 gallons of water a week.

Cat-facing is caused by low temperatures, below 50 degrees, during flowering and fruit set. We did have cooler than normal spells this spring so you may see tomatoes in your garden that have large cavities and cracks at the bottom or blossom end of the fruit. (To some the deformations resemble a cat face – hence the term). The cavities and cracks can make the bottom portion of the fruit inedible.

Sunscald and solar yellowing – Tomatoes that receive too much sun exposure can turn yellow and leathery on the sun side. The unaffected portions of the fruit are still edible. Maintain sufficient leaf cover by increasing levels of nitrogen (slightly) in fertilizers and by not removing smaller branches that grow in the axils or branch junctions.

Summer’s high-intensity light is the cause of solar yellowing. The red pigment fails to develop when tomatoes are grown in open areas where they can receive up to 14 hours a day of sunlight.

Provide shade for scalding or yellowing tomatoes, especially during midday and hot afternoons, with shade cloth structures or moveable market umbrellas. Monitor sun and shade patterns since tomatoes need at least six hours of full sun.

All vine, no fruit – Tomatoes, especially vine or indeterminate varieties, are sensitive to nitrogen in fertilizers and will rapidly produce more vine than flowers if nitrogen levels are too high. Switch to lower nitrogen (less than 5 percent) or apply higher phosphorus (the second number on the label) foods or compost until green growth slows and flower production resumes. Vine-type tomatoes continue to produce over the long summer season; bush or determinate tomatoes have a shorter productive season but are less sensitive to excess nitrogen.

Lower leaves dying – Verticillium wilt is a soil-borne fungus that infects tomatoes as well as many other plants. The fungus blocks water and nutrient uptake. Lower leaves turn brown and die; then the entire plant dies from the bottom up. Symptoms become more severe when plants are water- and heat-stressed.

Buy tomatoes that are labeled as being resistant to verticillium wilt. Look for the letter V on the label. Rotate summer vegetable crops every year to prevent the buildup of the fungus in the soil and pull out dying plants as soon as the disease is obvious.

Soil solarization, using the heat of the summer sun, can significantly reduce the numbers of fungal spores in the soil. Check the UC Integrated Pest Management website ( under soil solarization for complete, easy instructions.

Send Elinor Teague plant questions at

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Did You Know?

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A team of UCR landscapers worked on a renovation project that transformed an arid space into a decorative, serene, xeriscape garden, located in front of the CHASS Interdisciplinary building (across from the Arts building).

The work began with about 30 volunteers on Highlander Day of Service this past April. Volunteers helped turn the soil and ripped away dry vegetation. A few weeks later — before UCR’s commencement ceremonies — UCR landscapers worked quickly to revitalize the area and welcome the thousands of visitors who come across campus for graduation ceremonies.

This renovation was one of three beautification projects on campus, said Toshio “Tos” Ishida, assistant director of Landscape and Refuse Service with Facilities Services.

Raymond Bolles, landscape supervisor, said it was important to complete the project before graduations in order to give visitors “a warm welcome with an esthetically pleasing garden.”

The newly designed xeriscape garden is located between the north and south  CHASS Interdisciplinary building. bSANDRA BALTAZAR MARTINE/b

The newly designed xeriscape garden is located between the north and south  CHASS Interdisciplinary building. bSANDRA BALTAZAR MARTINE/b

The newly designed xeriscape garden is located between the north and south  CHASS Interdisciplinary building. bSANDRA BALTAZAR MARTINE/b

Raymond Bolles, landscape supervisor, works with the Facilities Services team on the new garden.bSANDRA BALTAZAR MARTINE/b

The Facilities Services team works on the new garden.bSANDRA BALTAZAR MARTINE/b

The Facilities Services team works on the new garden.bSANDRA BALTAZAR MARTINE/b

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UCR Citrus Products for Sale on Campus

Some of the new UCR citrus products are now available on campus. Currently at the Scotty Store in the HUB are items within the Citrus Collection, including citrus olive oil, citrus vinegar, honey vinegar, and Parliament Citron Chocolate bars.

Several items are also available in the Market at Glenmor and the Barnes Noble bookstore on campus.

For more information regarding the Citrus Collection, visit

Several of UCR’s citrus products are for sale on campus stores. iqbal pittalwala

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